The Blooming Lotus Square

The Story Behind...

The Blooming Lotus Square is a beautiful intricate floral overlay crochet square designed in collaboration between two friends sitting on opposite sides of the earth.  

Inas and I begun playing the What Were You Thinking Square Game in February last year (yes back in 2020!) and after many hours, weeks yes even moths of laughter through twists and turns of life; we finished her in the autumn. Somethings are just that much sweeter when cooked together over time. 

This square ended up being a bit bigger than the other What Were You Thinking Squares from the series. She measures 25 x 25 cm and is thereby approximately 5 cm bigger than the others.  

This highly textured, yet calming, design makes a perfect base for such projects as pillows, crossbody bags, blankets and wallhangings. 

Inas about the experience, square and game: 
 
When Tess ask me to play this game, you can guess my answer : yes!! I’m really excited!! This will be a exciting game.
 
I really love Tess design at the first sight and my designs also inspired from her makes. You must know how happy I am when one of my inspiring designer invite me to design along. This is really fun and special experience that I don’t know what will she do in the next round. So much surprises! Also so much happiness because the design turns out so beautiful! 
 
Thank you very much Tess for this fun designing game. This experience have a special place in my heart.

Thank you so much for playing this game with me Inas. You are absolutely amazing and I’m so happy that I got to know you even better.  And I know that we both can’t wait to see all beautiful projects come to life so please remember to share your progress and makes with us:

#BloomingLotusSquare 

@SistersInStitch @Inas.craft @Crochetedbytess

We wish you lots of fun!

xxx

Tess & Inas

Two Blooming Lotus Squares in vintage pinks and teal tones placed on a table

The Written Pattern

Copyright: Eghult Consulting AB, Therese Eghult

All rights reserved. No part of this pattern may be published, resold, reproduced (in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, by photocopying, recording or otherwise), shared, translated or altered without prior permission in writing from the author. 

Skill level: Intermediate/Advance

Finished size: 25 cm x 25 cm

You will need: A 3 mm hook, a darning needle and scissors. 

Please note that you can use most types of yarn for this square. However, we suggest a mercerised cotton for the best texture and stitch definition.  

Colorways: There are four colorways available for this pattern. For this version we will make the main colorway in gorgeous teal and pinks with yarns from the two brands Scheepjes and Yarn And Colors, both are a 4 ply/2-fine weight yarn.

The other three colorways can be accessed in the downloadable version in the section above. 

  • A. Antique Mauve (257) Scheepjes Catona
  • B. Linen (505) Scheepjes Catona
  • C. Light Pink (044) Yarn And Colors Must-have
  • D. Old Rose (408) Scheepjes Catona
  • E. Mustard (015) Yarn And Colors Must-have
  • F. Fuchsia (049) Yarn And Colors Must-have
  • G. Silver Green (402) Scheepjes Catona

Terminology (US)

  • st – stitch
  • rnd – round
  • FP – Front Post stitch
  • BLO – Back Loops Only
  • FP – Front Post stitch
  • ch – chain stitch
  • ch sp – chain space
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • puff – puff stitch (yarn over 3 times + 1 closing chain)
  • cl – cluster stitch (stated amount of sts worked in/around the same st)
  • tog – together (a decreasing st worked over stated amount of sts)

Note! All rounds begin with a standing stitch if nothing else is stated. 

rnd 1 (A)

Make 12 hdc into a magic circle, close with a sl st in the first st of the rnd

– 12 hdc

rnd 2 (A) Begin in any given:

*1 dc3cl + ch 2 in the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the first ch of the rnd

– 12 dc3cl, 12 ch2-sps

rnd 3 (B) Begin around any given:

*1 FPsc around the next dc3cl, ch 4, skip the next ch2-sp; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st 1 FPhdc in the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the first ch of the rnd

– 12 FPsc, 12 ch4-sps

rnd 4 (B) Note! You’ll be skipping and working entirely behind the ch4-sps, and only around the ch2-sps from rnd 2. Begin around any given:

*4 dc around the next ch2-sp, skip the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 48 dc

rnd 5 (C) Note! You’ll be working in stitches from both rnd 3 and 4. Begin around any given:

*1 dc3cl + ch 2+ 1 dc3cl + ch 2 + 1 dc3cl around the next ch4-sp from rnd 3, skip the next 4 dc from rnd 4 that is placed behind this section, 1 sc in the next 4 sts from rnd 4, skip the next ch4-sp of rnd 3; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 18 dc3cl, 12 ch2-sps, 24 sc

rnd 6 (D) Note! You’ll be working in sts from both rnd 3 and 5. Begin in any first ch2-sp from rnd 5:

*3 dc around the next ch2-sp from rnd 5, 1 FPdc + ch 2 + 1 FPdc around the next st, 3 dc around the next ch2-sp from rnd 5, 1 FPhdc around the next st, skip the next 4 sts, 1 dc3cl around the next skipped ch4-sp from rnd 3, 1 FPhdc around the next st from rnd 5; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 36 dc, 12 FPhdc, 12 FPdc, 6 dc3cl, 6 ch2-sps

rnd 7 (C) Note! An optional and independent rnd, begin around any given:

Work 12 surface sl sts around the legs of the sts from rnd 1; close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 12 surface sl sts

rnd 8 (B) Note! Work behind your work and only in the skipped dcs from rnd 4, begin in any first dc of a set of four:

*2 dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st + ch 3; rep from * til end, close with a sl st to the first st of the rnd

– 36 dc, 6 ch3-sps

rnd 9 (C) Note! You will be working in sts from both rnd 8 and 6, begin in any first dc from rnd 8:

*1 hdc in the next 6 sts, skip the next ch3-sp, 1 FPdc + ch 3 + 1 FPdc around the next dc3cl from rnd 6; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 36 hdc, 6 ch3-sps, 12 FPdc

rnd 10 (E) Begin in any first hdc:

*1 hdc in the next 6 sts, skip the next st, 1 dc3cl + ch 2 + 1 dc3cl + ch 2 + 1 dc3cl around the next ch3-sp, skip the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

Tip! Place stitch markers in the skipped hdc:s of this rnd, you’ll be working in them later for rnd 14

– 36 hdc, 18 dc3cl, 12 ch2-sps

rnd 11 (F) Begin around any first given:

*(1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc around the next ch2-sp, 1 FPdc around the next st) x 2 times, skip the next st, 1 BLOsc in the next 4 sts, skip the next st, 1 FPdc around the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 36 dc, 18 FPdc, 24 BLOdc, 24 ch2-sps

rnd 12 (A) Note! You’ll be working in sts from both rnd 11 and 6. Begin in any first BLOdc from rnd 11:

*1 sc in the next 2 sts + ch 2, 1 sc around the skipped ch2-sp from rnd 5 + ch 2, 1 sc in the next 2 sts from rnd 11, 1 FPsc around the next st, skip the next st, (3 sc around the next ch2-sp, skip the next st) x 2 times, 1 FPsc around the next st, (3 sc around the next ch2-sp, skip the next st, 1 FPsc around the next st) x 2 times; rep from * til end, close with a sl st to the second st of the rnd

– 102 sc, 12 ch2-sps, 18 FPsc

rnd 13 (A) Note! You’ll be working in sts from both rnd 12 and 11. Begin around any middle FPsc on a peak from rnd 12:

*1 FPdc around the next st, 1 puff in the next 6 sts, 1 FPtr3tog over the next FPdc (rnd 11) + sc (rnd 12) + FPdc (rnd 11), ch 1, 1 puff in the next 6 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 6 FPdc, 72 puffs, 6 FPtr3tog, 6 ch1-sps

rnd 14 (E) Note! Work entirely behind your work and begin in any first skipped hdc from rnd 10:

*1 sc in the next skipped hdc from rnd 10 + ch 5; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 12 sc, 12 ch5-sps

rnd 15 (G) Begin around any given:

*3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc + ch 1 around the next ch5-sp, skip the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 72 dc, 24 ch1-sps

rnd 16 (E) Begin in any first dc of a set from rnd 15:

*(1 sc in the next 3 sts, 1 sc around the next ch1-sp) x 2 times, 1 hdc in the next 3 sts, 1 dc in/around the next 2 sts, 1 tr in the next 2 sts, ch 2, skip the next ch1-sp, 1 tr in the next 2 sts, 1 dc in/aorund the next 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 3 sts, 1 sc around the next ch1-sp; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 36 sc, 24 hdc, 8 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch2-sps

rnd 17 (G) Begin around any given:

*2 hdc + ch 2 + 2 hdc around the next ch2-sp, 1 hdc in the next 23 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 108 hdc, 4 ch2-sps

rnd 18 (G) Begin around any given:

*2 dc + ch 2 + 2 dc around the next ch2-sp, 1 dc in the next 27 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 124 dc, 4 ch2-sps

rnd 19 (C) Note! You’ll work this rnd around the sts from rnd 13. Begin around any first FPdc in the middle of a petal:

*1 FPsc around the next 2 sts, (1 sc around the next sp between 2 puffs, 1 FPsc around the next st) x 5 times, 1 FPsc3tog over the three legs from the tr3tog, (1 FPsc around the next st, 1 sc around the sp between 2 puffs) x 5 times, 1 FPsc around the next st; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 78 FPsc, 60 sc, 6 FPsc3tog

rnd 20 (C) Note! Work in the sts from rnd 19 and 13. Begin around any middle FPdc of a petal from rnd 13:

*1 FPdc + ch 2  + 1 FPdc around the next st from rnd 13, 1 hdc in the next 5 sts from rnd 19, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 1 sl st in the next st, skip the next st, 1 sl st in the next st, 1 sc in the next 5 sts, 1 hdc in the next 5 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 12 FPdc, 6 ch2-sps, 60 hdc, 60 sc, 12 sl st

rnd 21 (G) Note! Work this rnd in the sts from rnd 18, begin around any given:

*2 hdc + ch 2 + 2 hdc around the next ch2-sps, 1 hdc in the next 31 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 210 hdc, 4 ch2-sps

rnd 22 (B) Begin around any given:

*3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc around the next ch2-sp, (skip the next 2 sts, 1 dc2cl + ch 1 + 1 dc2cl around the next st) x 11 times, skip the next 2 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 24 dc, 4 ch2-sps, 88 dc2cl, 44 ch1-sps

rnd 23 (A) Begin around any given:

*3 dc + ch 2. + 3 dc around the next ch2-sp, 1 dc in the next 3 sts, skip the next st, (1 dc2cl + ch 1 + 1 dc2cl around the next ch1-sp), skip the next 2 sts) x 11 times, 1 dc in the next 3 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 48 dc, 4 ch2-sps, 88 dc2cl, 44 ch1-sps

rnd 24 (C) Note! For this rnd you’ll be working in the sts from rnd 13, 20, 22 and 23. The video tutorial will be very helpful for this rnd. Begin around the ch2-sp of a petal from rnd 20; starting on the sides with only one petal on it:

For the sides with one petal:

2 dc around the ch2-sp from rnd 20, 1 sl st around the ch1-sp of the 6th dc2cl from rnd 23, 2 dc around the same ch2-sp from rnd 20 that you just worked in.

*1 FPdc2cl around the next st form rnd 20, skip the next st, 1 sc in the next 8 sts, skip the next 2 sts (i.e. sc + sl st), ch 2, 1 FPdc2cl around the centre tr of the FPdc3tog from rnd 13, ch 2, skip the next 2 sts from rnd 23 (i.e. sl st + sc), 1 sc in the next 8 sts, skip the next st*

For the sides with two petals: 

1st petal: 2 dc around the next ch2-sp from rnd 20, 1 sl st around the gap between the 2nd and 3rd dc2tog from rnd 22, 2 dc around the same ch2-sp from rnd 20; rep as above from * til * one time

2nd petal: 2 dc around the next ch2-sp from rnd 20, 1 sl st in the gap between the 9th and 10th dc2tog from rnd 22, 2 dc around the same ch2-sp from rnd 20; rep as above from * til * one time

Close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 24 dc, 6 sl sts, 18 FPdc2clm 96 sc, 12 ch2-sps

rnd 25 (G) Note! Work this rnd entirely in the sts from rnd 23. Begin around any first ch2-sp:

*2 sc + ch 1. + 2 sc around the next ch2-sp, 1 FPhdc around the next 7 sts, ch 1 , skip the next ch1-sp, (1 FPhdc2tog over the next 2 dc2cl, ch 2 , skip the next ch1-sp) x 9 times, 1 FPhdc2tog over the next 2 dc2cl, ch 1, skip the next ch1-sp, 1 FPhdcs around the next 7 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 16 sc, 12 ch1-sps, 56 FPhdc, 40 FPhdc2tog, 36 ch2-sps

rnd 26 (G) Begin around any given:

*1 dc + ch 2 + 1 dc around the next corner ch1-sp, 1 dc in the next 9 sts, 1 dc around the next ch1-sp, (1 FPdc around the next st, 2 dc around the next ch2-sp) x 9 times, 1 FPdc around the next st, 1 dc around the next ch1-sp, 1 dc in the next 9 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd

– 160 dc, 40 FPdc, 4 ch2-sps

rnd 27 (G) Begin around any given:

*1 dc + ch 2. + 1 dc around the next ch2-sp, 1 dc in the next 51 sts; rep from * til end, close with an invisible join to the second st of the rnd and fasten off

– 208 dc, 4 ch2-sps

Well done, you have finished your Blooming Lotus Square! 

All that is left is a little blocking, if you need some help; check out our blocking tutorial on www.YouTube.com/SistersInStitch

We hope you had lots of fun and will enjoy your make for many years to come. 

xxx

Tess & Inas

We Are All: SistersInStitch

Well done!

Your square is finished and you have completed part 1 of the Islands Stroll CAL, we hope you had lot’s of fun making it. If you share on social media: please use our official hashtag #IslandStrollCAL cause we would love to see it!

Continue on to our second part: The Oh I Adore Square!

We Are All: SistersInStitch